51黑料

ST. LOUIS 鈥� Rob Connoley has closed his acclaimed Grand Center restaurant Bulrush, saying he can no longer operate in a state that is 鈥渁ctively working to harm鈥� the LGBTQ community.

Connoley was a finalist earlier this month at the prestigious James Beard Awards, and Bulrush had drawn nationwide raves for its Ozark cuisine since opening in 2019.

Connoley, who is gay, cited Missouri Attorney General Andrew Bailey鈥檚 actions toward transgender people, including attempts to seek their medical records.

鈥淚鈥檝e done LGBT advocacy for a long time, 30-plus years, and I鈥檝e never seen something like this,鈥� Connoley said. 鈥淣ormally, it鈥檚 legislative, and there鈥檚 work you can do with your representatives and constituents. But here, it鈥檚 one person doing hate politics.鈥�

Bailey鈥檚 office did not immediately return a request for comment.

Bailey last year launched an investigation of Washington University鈥檚 Transgender Center in 51黑料. He has since broadened the probe to other gender-affirming-care providers, such as Planned Parenthood, as well as therapists and social workers who work with minors seeking gender-affirming care.

Connoley, a 51黑料 native and self-taught chef, returned to the area in 2016 from Silver City, New Mexico, where he had run his first restaurant to national notice.

Bulrush featured modern interpretations of historical Ozark cuisine, focusing on local ingredients and aiming for zero waste. Connoley also directed research into the indigenous and enslaved persons who had lived in the Ozarks. Connoley termed Bulrush鈥檚 community-minded business model 鈥渞eparative restauranting.鈥�

Both chef and restaurant have won local and national acclaim. Bulrush was ranked No. 1 in the 2024 edition of the Post-Dispatch鈥檚 annual STL 100. Connoley is a three-time semifinalist for the James Beard Foundation鈥檚 鈥淏est Chef: Midwest鈥� award. This year, he was one of five finalists for the honor.

Bulrush鈥檚 final service was Sunday. The restaurant invited many of its frequent regulars, including two couples that had each dined there more than 30 times over the past five years.

Connoley said Bulrush was 鈥渁 successful business鈥� at the time of its closure.

鈥淲e鈥檙e at capacity every night,鈥� he said. 鈥淲e鈥檝e paid off all of our investors (and) all of our people who provide stuff to us. We paid off our lease. Everything鈥檚 paid off.鈥�

Connoley said he began thinking about closing Bulrush one year ago. He traveled to London to teach Ozark cooking for National Geographic, in partnership with the Missouri Department of Tourism.

鈥淎nd even at that time, I鈥檓 like, 鈥楾his feels really weird, promoting a state that鈥檚 actively trying to oppress me,鈥欌�� he said.

Connoley intends to move out of Missouri but declined to discuss his future plans.

鈥淎ll I know is I can make sure that this city and this state and this region knows that one of the best restaurants in the region isn鈥檛 going to do business here anymore because it鈥檚 not a place that is safe for LGBT families,鈥� Connoley said.

Connoley argued that it鈥檚 time to elect leaders who represent the entire state, rather than those with 鈥渆xtremist鈥� policies. He believes his own experience in the Ozarks bears this out.

Before he moved back to 51黑料, he read a Vice article titled 鈥淵ou probably don鈥檛 know about Ozark cuisine because of the KKK.鈥�

But that has not been Connoley鈥檚 experience.

鈥淭he people down there (in the Ozarks) have always been so hospitable and so welcoming,鈥� he said. 鈥淎nd I鈥檝e always been myself, so it鈥檚 not like they don鈥檛 know (who I am).

鈥淪o the attorney general is not lined up with the majority of the people. He鈥檚 lined up with the people who get him on Fox News and get (him) elected.鈥�

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